Cesar, Piedmont Ave., Oakland, CA

Endive and watercress salad with smoked trout and persimmon
Tocino de pato (house smoked duck breast, half portion)
Glass of 2005 Juan Gil jumilla
Grapefruit and campari sorbetes

It was good. They play great music (Stevie Wonder, with enough booty to the baseline to be recognizable over the crowd). What else can I say? I’m tired. Okay, okay… a quickie.

Right on the heels of the delicious maple roasted duck breast at Wood Tavern (which I’m too lazy to write about — let’s just say that they make damned good poultry), I had a light dinner at Cesar. Yes, “light.” Tummy’s been bothering me, but a girl’s gotta eat.

The salad: good components all around, with the trout imparting a nice smokiness to the creamy dressing. I liked everything separately, but somehow the sum of the whole was not greater than its parts.

The tocino de pato is a standard for me. Simple, barely-pink smoked duck with a tidy layer of fat. Solid, though a little mealier-textured than the last time I had it. We can’t all be perfect all the time.

The Juan Gil jumilla is one of my favorites. Dark, more complex than its vintage suggests, light/medium bodied enough to go with everything. Plus, I know it has a pretty, scripty-silver label! (Remind me to develop a wine vocabulary. )

The sorbetes were average and icy. I could barely tell the difference between the grapefruit and campari (chinotto, I assume, as it wasn’t the slightest bit alcoholic). However, the lovely bartender/server treated me to a bit of Chateau Roumieu Lacoste Sauternes (2003? 2004?). While I’m not a fan of dessert wine, it was a perfect compliment to the bitter citrus indistinctness.

$35 for a quick dinner, and it was an efficient and positive experience all around. Goodnight!

p.s. – The Woodford Manhattan at Wood Tavern is an absolute masterpiece. Spicy and smooth with a sweetness that doesn’t linger. I had two.